[FrankJScott]

[center][/center]

[center]VIEW THE BEST SEX DOLL JOINT-LOOSENING ADVICE NOW[/center]

Joint-Loosening Your Sex Doll After Unboxing: How To Do It Safely
The unboxing goes well, she looks incredible, and then her arm won't move when you try to bend it into a pose. Harder you push. It still won't move. It dawns on you that you might have damaged her, that she might have arrived damaged, or that you've wasted your money. Take your hands off her for a second. There's an uncomplicated solution, and this is totally usual.

It's Not a Manufacturing Error
From the factory, dolls come with tight joints by design, not through any manufacturing mistake. Holding a pose in any position, standing, sitting or lying, needs joints that are tight enough. With a substantial doll, a loose joint beats a tight one for badness, as it means she can't hold any pose at all. The upshot: producers err on the side of tight, and the joints need breaking in before correct use.

Why a Stiff Doll Is the Better Doll
Step one is understanding why the joints are tight. Because heavy dolls need joints that support important weight, looseness out of the box leads to sagging within hours of being posed. A longer helpful life comes from tight joints, since they can be loosened gradually over time without getting too loose too swiftly. Give a stiff doll a week or two of working in and the joints end up perfectly balanced. If she arrives loose, she has no way to tighten back up, and sagging will be a battle within months.

Setting Expectations Joint by Joint
The second point is that each joint has its own level of tightness. Generally the tightest are the hip, knee and shoulder joints, which bear the most weight. The neck, wrist and ankle joints bear less weight and so are generally looser. The elbow and wrist joints are in between. Knowing this helps you set expectations, because you're not going to have the same experience with every joint, and the hip joints in particular might take considerably more effort to break in than the neck.

The Hairdryer Technique, Step by Step
The details matter, even though the method for loosening joints is simple. For each joint, thirty to sixty seconds of warm (not hot) air from a hairdryer held about six inches away does the trick. Without stressing the surrounding material, you can move the joint more readily once warm air has softened the TPE around it. With the joint warm, gently take it through its full range of motion several times; don't force anything. In turn, repeat the process for the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees and ankles.

How Heat Helps Joints Hold Their New Position
TPE is a thermoplastic, meaning it softens when heated and firms up when cooled, and that's why the warm-up matters. The joint holds its new position once the doll cools down and the material firms back up, having been temporarily softened by warming so that it moved more readily. Heat explains it all: stiff at first, pliable after a warm-up, and stubborn after weeks of use if she's been in a cold room.

Don't Give Up on the First Day
The first session should last a full hour. Sounds like a lot, but it's the difference between really posing your doll and leaving her stuck in one position because you gave up. Give the neck ten minutes, each shoulder and elbow ten, each hip and knee ten, and each wrist and ankle five. Move slowly, use the joint's full range, and stop straight away if a joint appears to resist more than it should; never force anything. Warm it more, then attempt again.

Patience With Stubborn Hips
The most stubborn joints are the hips, which is why they deserve their own mention. The hips bear the most weight, and they're generally the tightest joints on the doll. On a heavy doll the hip joints can be genuinely tricky to move at first, and it can take a number of sessions before they feel natural. There's no cause for panic if the hips don't move on day one. Warm them up, move them as far as they'll go, then stop and attempt again tomorrow. The hips thoroughly breaking in after a week or two is usual.

Raising the Arms Forward, Backward and Sideways
The shoulders rank second for stubbornness. They bear notable weight too, and are ordinarily locked tight to stop the arms sagging while she stands. Cover the shoulders' full range of motion by raising the arms forward, backward and to the side; if anything feels like it's resisting, stop. You can typically coax a shoulder that won't raise fully into position utilising patience and warmth; forcing it will damage the joint.

Don't Force the Knees Into Extreme Positions
Mid-range is where the knee joints sit. Though easier to move than the hips, they're still tighter than the arms, and they need to be worked through bending, straightening and minor rotation. Holding the doll upright is the knees' job, so they're generally tighter than the elbows but stop short of the hips' tightness. Don't force the knees into extreme positions until they've been faulty in properly; work through their range of motion slowly.

Warmth for the Neck's Full Range
Because it bears the least weight, the neck joint is generally the loosest. From the start it should move relatively freely, but some warmth may still be needed for its full range. Despite feeling looser, the neck needs gentleness, being the easiest joint to break in but also the easiest to damage by force. Expressive dolls tend to have necks that move freely, while a stiff neck suggests a doll harder to pose naturally.

Hands and Feet Need Care Too
The wrist and ankle joints are somewhere in between. They don't bear much weight, so they're usually reasonably loose, but they can still be tight enough to cause difficulties if you're not diligent. Take them through their full range of bending, rotation and flexing, and don't force them into extreme positions until they've been broken in. A tight ankle makes it hard to stand the doll, and a too-tight wrist makes it hard to pose the hands.

Patience Is the Entire Technique
Forcing anything is a no, and I mean never. Force a joint and you risk a snapped skeleton or torn material, both expensive repairs that could have been evaded. A joint that won't move needs more warmth. Stop for the day if it still won't move, and attempt again tomorrow. It's apparent in every pose she holds whether a doll was non-working in properly or forced, and the complete method comes down to patience.

Don't Start on Day One
This process gets easier with a few useful tips. Where possible, select a warm room, as the ambient temperature influences the material and a doll feels stiffer in a cold room than a warm one. A hairdryer should be within reach, and used liberally. Leave the joints alone on the first day, since the doll needs to settle after shipping and a day of rest makes the material more flexible when you do get to work.

Fourth and Fifth Sessions: Quick Checks
About a week is needed, in daily sessions that get progressively shorter. After an opening session of about an hour and a second of possibly forty minutes, the fourth or fifth session needs only five or ten minutes to take each joint through its range and confirm that everything is working. The joints will feel natural after a week, letting you pose the doll without effort. A stiff doll that you steer clear of posing in anything requiring movement is the result of skipping this process, which defeats the purpose of acquiring a poseable doll.

Pose Holding vs Slouching
The payoff from loosening the joints properly is notable. She holds any pose for hours without sagging and switches position in seconds rather than minutes, provided she was broken in correctly. Forced dolls end up with loose joints within months and slouch even when you attempt to pose them upright. How you handle the first week decides the difference completely, because it's the only week when the joints are breakable-in rather than already set.

When a Joint Becomes Too Loose
There's generally a way to tighten a joint that becomes too loose, which can happen with hefty use over time. Skeletons with adjustable screws, which are only some, can have their tension restored by a small adjustment. For some skeletons the answer is a new joint; it's dearer, though still cheaper than a new doll. Waiting until a joint is totally loose is an oversight, as the earlier you catch it the easier it is to fix; ask the manufacturer what kind of adjustment is possible on your specific doll.

A Feature, Not a Problem
Stiffness on day one is not a problem; it's a feature, and that's the bottom line. The joints are tight because they need to be tight, and the process of loosening them is part of owning the doll. Prudently work through each joint, use heat, take your time, and don't force a thing. All it takes is a week of effort, and the reward is a doll who poses naturally for years. More info at this rosslink. Also check out this site which is worth considering with straight from the source and original site for more.
[center][/center]

[center]CHECK OUT THE BEST SEX DOLL GUIDE ONLINE[/center]